In 1993, inspired by a technical study of Mughal and Safavid silks, textile historian Rahul Jain set up ASHA, a draw-loom weaving workshop in India to re-create the weave, material and style of Imperial-quality Mughal silks from the 17th and 18th centuries. The designs were initially inspired by the Mughal patka or court sash.
Over the years Rahul refined the process to successfully revive the technical brilliance and opulent beauty of Mughal silks of which little survived. The drawlooms at ASHA produced shawls and panels in the taquete, samit, lampas and double-cloth weaves.In 2007, ASHA wove the first draw-loomed velvet to be woven in the region in more than a century. The design reproduces a 16th century Ottoman velvet in the Topkapi Saray in Istanbul.
ASHA’s textiles have been exhibited at the National Museum in New Delhi in 1997 and the British Museum in London in 2000. Over the years, they have been acquired by private and public collections, including the Textile Museum, Washington DC and the British Museum, London.
Francesca Galloway promotes the study and scholarship of historic Indian textiles and is delighted to present Rahul Jain’s exquisite work. The exhibition will showcase a range of ASHA’s textiles including garments styled in the manner of the Indian choga, loom-woven shawls inspired by the Mughal patka, or sash, and textiles inspired by Safavid and Ottoman designs.
In 1996 ASHA was brought under the aegis of the trust Textile Art of India founded by Suresh Neotia, Lekha Poddar and Rahul Jain and chaired by Martand Singh.